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Unformatted text preview: (b) For O >> h , show that the variation in the bottom pressure is equal to the change in elevation of the fluid as the wave passes overhead. 4. The boundary condition which makes water wave problems complicated is the [kinematic] [dynamic] boundary condition on the [bottom] [free surface]. When we linearize the water wave problem, we are simplifying the equation for: [free surface pressure] [free surface kinematics] [both] by ignoring terms that are nonlinear in K and M . 5. The equation that uniquely relates wave frequency and wavenumber is the ___________ relationship. It is derived from the boundary conditions on the ________________ ....
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 Spring '05
 DickK.P.Yue

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