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lec6_wavespectra - 13.42 Lecture Ocean Waves Spring 2005...

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13.42 Lecture: Ocean Waves Spring 2005 Alexandra H. Techet MIT Ocean Engineering Ocean Waves Photos removed for copyright reasons. 1
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FIGURE 1. Wave energy spectra. Red text indicates wave generation mechanisms and blue text indicates damping/restoring forces.
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World Meteorological Org. Sea State Codes Sea State Significant Wave Height Code Range 0 0 (meters) 1 0-0.1 2 0.1-0.5 3 0.5-1.25 4 1.25-2.5 5 2.5-4.0 6 4.0-6.0 7 6.0-9.0 8 9.0-14.0 9 > 14.0 Mean 0 (meters) 0.05 0.3 0.875 1.875 3.25 5.0 7.5 11.5 > 14.0 Description Calm (glassy) Calm (rippled) Smooth (mini-waves) Slight Moderate Rough Very Rough High Very High Huge The The Courtesy of JPL. highest winds generally occur in the Southern Ocean, where winds over 15 meters per second (represented by red in images) are found. The strongest waves are also generally found in this region. The lowest winds (indicated by the purple in the images) are found primarily in the tropical and subtropical oceans where the wave height is also the lowest. highest waves generally occur in the Southern Ocean, where waves over six meters in height (shown as red in images) are found. The strongest winds are also generally found in this region. The lowest waves (shown as purple in images) are found primarily in the tropical and subtropical oceans where the wind speed is also the lowest. In general, there is a high degree of correlation between wind speed and wave height. 3
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Courtesy of JPL. Courtesy of JPL. 4
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Wind Generated Waves Wind blows over long distance and long period time before sea state is fully developed.
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