Geosci 105 - -up with wave, top of wave, down and back into...

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-Waves -Anatomy of a progressive wave -frequency: number of wave crests passing point a or point b each second -Period: time required for wave crest at point a to reach point b -wave crest, length may change but period stays same -start stop watch as first wave passes, stop it after second wave and that’s the period. -the time it takes two successive crests to pass a stationary point such as a piling -Crest: wave height: vertical distance from crest to trough -Orbital path of individual water molecule at water surface -wave amplitude- equals one half of wave height -wavelength- horizontal distance between a point on one wave and the comparable point on the next wave -wave speed- the velocity at which a wave moves laterally (equals wavelength divided by wave period:; sometimes also termed wave celerty=speed -Waves move energy across the sea surface -the water doesn’t travel with the wave -the orbital motion of waves
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Unformatted text preview: -up with wave, top of wave, down and back into -Significant motion extends to about wavelength- if you go down far enough the energy doesnt effect the wave anymore-go into ocean, when waves come if you go deep enough, the wave passes over you-Wave Types-capillary waves- very small ripples created by a disturbing force (usually the wind)-max wavelength is 1.73 cm-Wind Waves- evolve from capillary waves with more time and continued wind action-white caps are created when wind waves becomes bigger out in the ocean when the wave is too steep and it breaks and the white caps are created-wave steepness is related to the height/length =1/7-ration of wavelength to height is maximum at 1/7-releases heat and gasses to atmosphere-Wave classification and forces-disturbing force creates waves-disturbing force for wind waves is just gravity-Restoring force smoothes them back out again-Terms...
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