-Sea or sea state is the height of these irregular (choppy) waves in the area of wind wave formation-swell is mature waves that have spread away form the windy area, more regular and well-developed. -Factors controlling variety and size of waves-Wind velocity-Wind duration-Fetch (distance over which wind blows)-Uninterrupted wind blows over area-ex: take a swimming pool. The fetch area of that pool is small. You have winds that are hurricane forced winds and the waves in the swimming pool will never get high. That’s cause the fetch is small cause the pool is small. But the ocean can get huge waves because the fetch, where the waves can get generated, is large.-is the uninterrupted distance over which wind blows without significant change in direction-fetch is bigger when there is no land to stop it. In Antarctica, there are huge fetch area because there is not land to block it-Original state of the sea-a fully developed sea is one which has reached the maximum possible wave eight for the wind speed, duration , and fetch.-Deep vx. Shallow water waves
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This note was uploaded on 03/16/2012 for the course GEOSCI 105 taught by Professor Tobin during the Spring '12 term at University of Wisconsin.