wave refraction - Sea stacks and arches remnants of erosion...

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Wave refraction waves slow down in shallow water focuses wave energy on headlands Longshore drift when the current isn't perpendicular to the shore forms many coastal depositional features Sand spits common wherever sand is suppled and longshore current is present Tombolos island shields beach from wave energy leads to sand build up Near shore sedimentary structures barrier islands tidal flat swamp Beaches: Seasonal changes summer adds beach sand winter erodes beaches Coastlines (2 types) Emergent tectonic uplift of land/sea level drop Submergent tectonic lowering/sea level rise Wave erosion braking waves that erode depending on power
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Unformatted text preview: Sea stacks and arches remnants of erosion Tides ocean tides are the results of the gravitational attraction of the moon and sun on the ocean causes water to bulge outward on the side nearest the moon on the opposite side, inertia created by the Earth's rotation causes ocean water to bulge in the opposite direction 2 oceanic bulges so two sets of tides daily when a location lies under a bulge it experiences a high tide Number of factors influence timing and reach of tides Sun's gravity the equator tides are smaller than those at the poles...
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