test3 - Unit 9 Waves Geometry (shape) of wind waves Most...

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Unit 9 Waves Geometry (shape) of wind waves Most wind waves are less than 3 meters high.  Wavelengths from 60 – 150 meters long  are the most common Relative wavelengths of different types of waves Capillary waves - < 1.73 cm Wind Wave – 60 – 150 m Seiche – Large, variable; a function of basin size Tsunami – 200 km Tide – ½ circumference of Earth Differences between deep-water and shallow-water waves The paths of water molecules in a wind wave are circular only when the wave is traveling in deep  water, that is water that is deeper than one half of the waves length.  Once water depth is less  than one half of the waves length, the circle becomes more and more elliptical. Relationship between wavelength of waves and their speed Wave speed is directly proportional to its wavelength What are "swell' and "sea" The irregularly peaked waves in the area of wind formation are called sea.  The familiar smooth  undulation of the ocean surface is called swell. Factors determining the size of wind waves Wind speed, wind duration, and fetch, or the uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows  without a significant change in direction Changes in waves as they reach shallow water
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The circular motion of waves changes more and more to an elliptical pattern as the wave reaches  shallower and shallower water Refraction of waves in shallow water As a waves base comes into contact with the bottom it begins to slowdown.  If the wave is hitting  at an angle other than 90 0 , it will begin to curve into the direction of the angle. Motion of water particles in deep-water waves Circular Storm Surges, generation and effects Arrival of a storm surge or seismic sea wave in an enclosed harbor or bay, or a  sudden change in atmospheric pressure, is the disturbing force for the resonant  rocking of water known as a seiche. Characteristics of waves in storm-generating area The irregular peaked waves in the area of wind wave formation are called sea.  The chaotic  surface is formed by simultaneous wind waves of many wavelengths, periods, and heights.  Due  to the difference in speeds of different length waves, the larger waves outrun the smaller waves.   This way the waves are self-sorting once the storm dies down. Speed of tsunami
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This note was uploaded on 04/07/2008 for the course ISNS 3367 taught by Professor Pujana during the Spring '08 term at University of Texas at Dallas, Richardson.

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test3 - Unit 9 Waves Geometry (shape) of wind waves Most...

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