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Unformatted text preview: over which the wind blows to develop the sea l༆  See text book p. 363…. l༆  19 km/h for 2 hrs gives .9’ wave (19km) l༆  37 km/h for 10 hrs gives 4.9’ (140km) l༆  74 km/h for 42 hrs gives 28’ (1300km) l༆  92 km/h for 69 hrs gives 49’ (2,600km) 23 Wave RefracHon l༆  Waves will break according to the shallowness of the sea bed AND SLOW DOWN l༆  However the deeper part will conHnue at the same speed…….hence it will begin to curve around and end up breaking (typically) parallel to the shore 24 Wave CuriosiHes l༆  Recall…..diffracHon is where waves coincide (come together) and you get a combinaHon of crests and troughs l༆  When passing through a gap…wave energy excites water in the ‘harbour’ – typically a smaller wavelength. The waves ‘moves’ around the obstacle 25 3. Seiche Waves 26 l༆  Seiche waves are in fact standing waves present in an isolated body of water generated by a force on the water i.e. Wind l༆  Sloshing of water like in a bath will occur in water body such as Lake Ontario l༆  Typical period of 1- 2 minutes & heights with wide range – maybe up to a few m in height l༆  Wavelength….can be the width of the basin l༆  Earthquakes commonly generate seiche waves in swimming pools over vast distances 4. Tsunami Waves l༆  Small heights, very long periods and wavelengths 27 5. Tides l༆  Tides are caused by the gravitaHonal pull of the moon…..and the sun on the Earth’s surface l༆  Tide is a forced wave, not a free wave due to unending influence of gravity l༆  Recall for Newtonian...
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This document was uploaded on 01/17/2014.

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