Waves_notes - Waves"Jaws at Maui Waves Currents transport...

Info iconThis preview shows pages 1–17. Sign up to view the full content.

View Full Document Right Arrow Icon
Waves “Jaws” at Maui 0
Background image of page 1

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Waves Currents transport Water (and heat) Waves transport ENERGY 0
Background image of page 2
Waves What are waves? A disturbance caused by the movement of energy through a medium Type Disturbing Force medium Sound Voice, explosion… air Seismic Fault rupture rock Ocean Wind water 0
Background image of page 3

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Waves Types of ‘Progressive’ Waves Longitudinal (through all materials) Back-and-forth motion Transverse (through solids) Side-to-side motion Combination: Orbital (along interfaces) 0
Background image of page 4
Waves Disturbing Force = energy input Wind wind waves* Landslide/faulting tsunami Moon/sun gravitation tides Rapid changes in atmospheric pressure seiche Restoring Force = Gravity -returns water to flatness 0
Background image of page 5

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Wave Classification Crest - maximum elevation: above still water level Trough - max depression: below still water level Wavelength (L)- crest to crest, or trough to trough Height (H)- vertical distance crest to trough Amplitude (A)- H/2 , still water to crest or trough crest trough H Amp L equilibrium surface 0
Background image of page 6
Wave Classification Period (T) - time for one wavelength to pass a point (e.g. sec.) wave speed or Celerity (L/T) e.g. m/sec (book uses symbol “S” for speed) Frequency number of wave crests passing a point in 1 second (1/T) e.g. sec -1 Steepness (H/L) 0
Background image of page 7

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Properties of Waves
Background image of page 8
Wave Classification Period (T) = time between wave crests Is a constant for any wave Function of the disturbing force If wind energy increases, wavelength (L) increases, so Speed (L/T) increases Period (T) does not change C = L/T ….so if wind , L and C More wind longer wavelength faster wave 0
Background image of page 9

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Wave Motion Energy is moving forward, …water is not! No net displacement of water Water particles move in circular orbits (orbitals) Forward on the crest Backward in the trough 0
Background image of page 10
Wave Motion 0
Background image of page 11

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Wave Motion At surface orbit diameter = H (height) Size of the orbit decreases rapidly with depth (decreased wind energy) ½ wavelength depth = wavebase …negligible orbital motion 0
Background image of page 12
Wave Motion Deep Water Wave D > L/2…waves do not ‘feel bottom’ Shallow Water Wave D < L/20…waves ‘feel bottom’ ½ L } } < L/2 > L/2 0
Background image of page 13

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Waves Waves don’t ‘feel’ bottom Waves ‘feel’ bottom…flatten 0
Background image of page 14
Wave Motion Orbits don’t reach the seafloor Water depth > ½ wavelength If L = 20 m, depth > 10 m Only wind waves can be deep water waves Wavelengths for tsunamis and tides have such long wavelengths (100’s – 1000’s km relative to ocean depth, 11 km) they are shallow water waves Deepwater Waves 0
Background image of page 15

Info iconThis preview has intentionally blurred sections. Sign up to view the full version.

View Full DocumentRight Arrow Icon
Wave Motion Wind Wave (deep water wave)
Background image of page 16
Image of page 17
This is the end of the preview. Sign up to access the rest of the document.

This note was uploaded on 04/08/2008 for the course OCE 1001 taught by Professor Smith during the Spring '08 term at University of Florida.

Page1 / 72

Waves_notes - Waves"Jaws at Maui Waves Currents transport...

This preview shows document pages 1 - 17. Sign up to view the full document.

View Full Document Right Arrow Icon
Ask a homework question - tutors are online