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Unformatted text preview: the restaurant was
staging a “Western Big Mac” promotion. It was decorated in a Wild West theme, with paper place mats featuring a wanted poster of “Butch
Essidie.” The restaurant was full of mothers and small children. Teenagers dressed in Nikes, Levis, and Tommy Hilfiger T-shirts sat in groups
and smoked cigarettes. Turkish immigrants worked in the kitchen, seventies disco music played, and the red paper cups on everyone’s tray
said “Always Coca-Cola.” This McDonald’s was in Dachau, but it could have been anywhere — anywhere in the United States, anywhere in
the world. Millions of other people at that very moment were standing at the same counter, ordering the same food from the same menu,
food that tasted everywhere the same. at the circus
THE MOST SURREAL EXPERIENCE that I had during three years of research into fast food took place not at the top-secret air force base that got its Domino’s pizzas delivered, not at the flavor factory off the New Jersey Turnpike, not at the Dachau McDonald’s. It occurred on March 1,
1999, at the Mirage Hotel in Las Vegas. Like an epiphany, it revealed the strange power of fast food in the new world order. The Mirage —
with its fiv...
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- Spring '08