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Unformatted text preview: ly recognize them as brand nam es , and have acquired a bas ic
lexicon of wine that can s erve them even when confronted with thos e Brazilian ups tarts .
In the wine heartlands of France, they are s cared to death of that trend -- not becaus e they think their is n't as
good as the bes t from California or South Aus tralia (what French winem aker will ever adm it that?) but becaus e
they don't traditionally call their wines Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. They call them Chateau DucruBeaucaillou or Corton-Charlem agne, and they aren't about to change. Som e areas , in the m iddle of s outhern
France, have now produced a generation of growers us ing the varietal nam es on their labels and are tem pting
cons um ers back to French wine. It will be an uphill s truggle, but there is probably no other way if France is to
avoid s im ply becom ing a s pecialty s ource of old-fas hioned wines for old-fas hioned connois s eurs .
Wine cons um ption was als o given a s ignificant boos t in the early 1990s by the work of Dr. Serge Renaud, who
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- Summer '14