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Unformatted text preview: - Wave train approaches shore feels bottom at depth = wavelength- Wave energy packed into shallower depth, becomes peaked- Wave slows; period is constant, wavelength decreases- Bottom of wave slows even as it gets shallower- Wave breaks when wave height to water depth is 3:4 WAVE REFRACTION- End of wave entering shallow water slows down, rest of wave continues at full speed- Wave bends towards shore (towards the slowest end) WAVE DIFFRACTION- Waves passing through a small gap diffract- New waves reform at a point in gap and radiate out, occurs in harbor entrances- Polynesian recognized internal refraction INTERNAL WAVES- Wind waves tend to be fast and short, waves on pycnocline move very slow, but are very large, and last a long time- Sub surface Kelvin waves bring an end to El Nino...
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- Fall '06