Wave Progression

Wave Progression - Wave train approaches shore “feels’...

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Notes Wave progression - Longest waves move away from storm fastest, in a wave train - Leading waves excite still water ahead of wave train - Wave package moves at half the speed of the original train MAXIMUM DEVELOPMENT OF WIND WAVES - Three things that determine the size of the waves. - Wind strength, wind duration, and uninterrupted length of ocean that wind blows over - Rarely get fully developed seas for strongest winds - Maximum wind speeds give maximum wave heights. Around Antarctica the biggest waves are located, they keep building up. WAVE STEEPNESS AND DISPERSAL FROM A STORM - Maximum wave height in Open Ocean is 1/7 of wavelength, higher waves white cap - As the wave moves away faster ones over-take slower ones - Waves can interfere with each other - High pressure goes clockwise, low pressure moves counter clock-wise. WAVES APPROACHING THE SHORE
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Unformatted text preview: - Wave train approaches shore “feels’ bottom at depth = ½ wavelength- Wave energy packed into shallower depth, becomes peaked- Wave slows; period is constant, wavelength decreases- Bottom of wave slows even as it gets shallower- Wave breaks when wave height to water depth is 3:4 WAVE REFRACTION- End of wave entering shallow water slows down, rest of wave continues at full speed- Wave bends towards shore (towards the slowest end) WAVE DIFFRACTION- Waves passing through a small gap diffract- New waves reform at a point in gap and radiate out, occurs in harbor entrances- Polynesian recognized internal refraction INTERNAL WAVES- Wind waves tend to be fast and short, waves on pycnocline move very slow, but are very large, and last a long time- Sub surface Kelvin waves bring an end to El Nino...
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