Physics of Waves

Physics of Waves - OCN 201 Friday Before Physics of Waves A...

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OCN 201 Friday Before Physics of Waves A wave is a progression of energy from one point to another. - Water in a wave does not move, only the energy moves. - Not net forward motion as wave passes, seagull ends where it started. - Only move forward while in front of the breaking wave. - Waves have a wave length, distance from one crest to the next. - Wave has a period similar to trigonometric functions - Wave orbitals become smaller and smaller, the rule is that: You can only feel the wave to a depth that is equal to half the wavelength. - At half the wavelength depth, orbit size is 1.23 of surface value. CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES - The major formation forces are: wind, atmospheric, pressure, landslides, or other earth movements, gravitational attraction - Low pressure means sea-level will rise. - Tides are a peculiar form of wave, under the impression of gravity. - Wind wave: 60-150m - Seiche: Large, variable; a function of basin size - Seismic: 200 km - Tide: .5 circumference of earth 240k miles
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Physics of Waves - OCN 201 Friday Before Physics of Waves A...

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