a. divergent b. convergent Chapter 7 Ocean Waves and Tides Self-Test 1. The source of kinetic energy for ocean surface waves is the_____. cryosphere
geosphere atmosphere hydrosphere 2. Energy propagation in a wind-driven ocean wave occurs with the _____. wave water 3. The restoring force for capillary waves is _____. water's surface tension gravity the wind Ekman transport 4. For wind-driven ocean waves longer than capillary waves, the restoring force is _____. water's surface tension gravity the wind Ekman transport 5. The wavelength of a capillary wave is less than ______ cm. 170 17 1.7 0.17 6. Wind-driven ocean waves expend energy _____. as they encounter the ocean bottom as they encounter the shore when breaking All of the above are correct. 7. The height of wind-driven waves depends upon _____. wind speed and turbulence duration of the wind
fetch All of the above are correct. 8. In active wind-driven wave-forming areas of the ocean, waves are _____. called swell rounded and sort themselves by wavelength called sea None of the above are correct. 9. The vertical distance between wave trough and wave crest is known as _____. wavelength wave frequency wave height wave period 10. _____-water waves are affected by frictional interaction with the ocean bottom. Shallow Deep Capillary All surface 11. As a wave moves into water depths of less than one-half its wavelength, _____. the wave shortens the wave moves faster the wave period increases the wave height decreases 12. The celerity of a shallow-water wave is computed from _____. gravity and water depth wavelength and gravity None of the above is correct. 13. A breaker develops when a wave approaching shore becomes _____. more stable
unstable 14. A nearly continuous train of waves breaking along the shore is known as _____. sea swell surf breaker 15. A seiche grows _____. through resonance via destructive wave interference when the period of a disturbance is much less than the natural oscillation of the basin None of the above is correct. 16. Astronomical tides are planetary-scale _____ waves. wind-driven deep-water capillary shallow-water 17. The ______ has a greater gravitational influence than the ____ on Earth's ocean tides. sun ..... moon moon ..... sun 18. A non-astronomical factor than may affect ocean tides is _____. the wind water depth coastal configuration All of the above are correct. 19. Treated as a wave, the tide at a particular location can be resolved into _____ component partial tides. two or three many
20. A tsunami _____. is a shallow-water wave is imperceptible in the open ocean can build to tremendous height when it reaches shore All of the above are correct. Instructor’s Notes Chapter 8: Co astlines ASTER image of Fairwell Spit, New Zealand ( from JPL- NASA ) Waves are the source of energy for erosion and deposition along coastlines • Wave energy is determined by wave height • Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough –
– Waves in open and shallow water ( figure 14.4) – Wave length is the horizontal distance between two waves crests or two troughs – Most ocean waves are approximately 130-1300 feet in length and travel 15-55 miles per hour –
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