The standard covers the processing manufacturing

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The standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading, and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70 % certi fi ed organic natural fi bers. The fi nal products may include, but are not limited to, fi ber products, yarns, fabrics, clothes, and home textiles. The standard does not set criteria for leather products. A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade of organic must contain a minimum of 95 % certi fi ed organic fi bers, whereas a product with the label grade made with organic must contain a minimum of 70 % certi fi ed organic fi bers Environmental criteria include the following: At all processing stages, the organic fi ber products must be separated from conventional fi ber products and must to be clearly identi fi ed. All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries, and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meet basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/ eliminability. Fig. 16 GOTS label. Retrieved from, Development of Eco-labels for Sustainable Textiles 169
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Critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nanoparticles, genetically modi fi ed organisms, and their enzymes are prohibited. The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals. Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching). Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited. Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are prohibited. Restrictions for accessories must be followed (e.g. no PVC, nickel, or chrome permitted). All operators must have an environmental policy, including target goals and procedures to minimize waste and discharges. Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption, and wastewater treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The wastewater from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional wastewater treatment plant. Packaging material must not contain PVC. Paper or cardboard used in pack- aging material, hang tags, swing tags, etc. must be recycled or certi fi ed according to FSC or PEFC. Technical quality and human toxicity criteria include the following: Technical quality parameters must be met (e.g. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness, shrinkage values). Raw materials, intermediates, fi nal textile products, and accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues. Minimum social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organisation must be met by all processors and manufacturers. They must have a social compliance management with de fi ned elements in place to ensure that the social criteria can be met (GOTS-IWG 2013 ).
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