group tour of wineries and invited a wine merchant to give the plenary address

Group tour of wineries and invited a wine merchant to

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group tour of wineries and invited a wine merchant to give the plenary address, in which he offered advice based on the success of a beverage that the trade jour- nals have most frequently taken as the model to be emulated. For the 1993 convention, the association in- vited Ben Cohen of Ben and Jerry's Ice Cream. Of his address, World Coffee and Tea reported: Ben Cohen urged the members of the coffee industry to integrate the 1960s values of peace and love with running their businesses .... Cohen pointed out that coffee is a very political commod- ity and called on the members of the special coffee industry to: * purchase coffee from the Aztec Cooperative because a high percentage of the money goes back to the faImers; buy it, tell your customers about it, and let them choose whether or not they want to pay the higher price," Cohen said. * buy organic coffees; and * participate in Coffee Kids by using a coin drop or donating a percentage of sales. aUse these steps to build your image as a socially con- scious business," Cohen explained, Uand make it your point of difference in a highly competitive business." [WC&T 1993:7] Flexibility and Concentration As the smaller roasters captured the new market niche, they expressed both surprise and concern about the activities of the giants, sometimes assuming that the market was theirs only as long as the giants stayed out (e.g., WC&T 1984:12). Some of the roasters' and retail- ers' fears were realized in September 1986 when both General Foods and A&P introduced specialty lines for sale in supermarkets General Foods with Maxwell House Private Collection and A&P with Eight O'Clock This content downloaded from on Mon, 10 Sep 2018 21:25:09 UTC All use subject to
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YUPPIE COFFEES AND CLASS IN THE UNITED STATES / WILLIAM ROSEBERRY 769 gentle art of selling the same coffee by whatever varietal label the customer orders. One well-known trade executive states his customers understand that substitutions are made from time-to-time when varietals are unavailable. A well-known roaster/re- tailer avoids buying varietal selections, following instead the accepted tradition of buying for cup qualities alone. He offers his patrons distinctive tastes in varietal labeled blends Colombian Blend, Kenya Blend, Jamaica Blue Mountain style, etc. Where the wholesale or retail clientele understand a mer- chant's practices and honorable intent, both the above- mentioned methods of labeling have been accepted. The problem arises where a merchant's intent is to mislead, through unbridled use of a stencil machine, creating labels just for the sake of inventing variety where none exists. Where no effort or skill is used, the public is presented with cut-rate mislabeled coffees. A recent inspection of a grocer in the New York area sadly proved a point: Virtually every American roast coffee on display was the same item under different label, purchased from a discount roaster offering all Amexican roast beans, regardless of origin, in the same $2.60 per lb. price range.
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