Issues such as the increasing number of species in

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Issues such as the increasing number of species in danger of extinction and the current focus on animal rights have fueled the debate among consumers, in some cases even resulting in high-pro fi le personalities taking a public stand in terms of these ethical issues (Kr ü ger et al. 2012 ). Fletcher ( 2008 ) stated that the textile and fashion sector should help cultivate new aspirations. In this, designers play a vital role as key components, capable of fostering change towards a model that provides for a balanced combination of processes, people, and the environment. According to Clark ( 2009 ), 80 % of the social, environmental, and cultural impact of fashion is determined during the design stage, which places a huge amount of responsibility into the hands of the designer (Earley 2007 ). Despite the glamour of fashion shows, the fashion world can be cruel and full of sacri fi ces and secrets. Christine Hart, a former model who worked for 10 years on the runways of Milan, Paris, and New York, described it in her book The Stories Models Never Tell ( 2011 ). This book revealed her experiences in a profession that even considered her to be too old because she started out at 25 years old, after graduating with a degree in law: Having an education gave me an invaluable background to navigate these waters, infested with sharks and piranhas, she explained. The dictatorship of beauty, as de fi ned by Hart ( 2011 ), implies setting canons of so-called perfection de fi ned by a minority. Setting these canons through fashion, advertising, and all their supports is a million-dollar business. For its part, transparency implies going beyond statutory requirements towards a full and honest disclosure of business activities, strategies, and current impacts, including both costs and supply chain. However, the long, complex, and fragmented 74 M.Á. Gardetti
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fashion supply chain lowers transparency and control and creates a disconnect between the few who reap the bene fi ts from fashion and the many who pay the social and environmental costs (Martin 2013 ; Gjerdrum Pedersen and Andersen 2014 .) Mining and the production of precious metals and stones entail a high cost for both nature and native communities. The misuse of mercury in gold mining has highly harmful consequences, not only for the environment and biodiversity, but for the health of craft miners and their families as well. As for diamonds, those coming from con fl ict areas threaten responsible business, because diamonds are extracted from war areas and often sold to fund the activities of a military leader or violent group. Both initiatives the UNGC Code of Conduct and the Higg Index 2.0 promote monitoring, evaluation, and auditing. Table 8 shows a summary of their relation- ships. While neither of these initiatives includes consumers, the UNGC Code of Conduct has an indirect allusion to them: it states that Communication on Progress 16 is the tool used by businesses and brands to communicate with their stakeholders and consumers are among them. This is no minor detail: it is not only Erhenfeld ( 1999 , 2002
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