For making point on paper
pointing Awal
is used. Some knife pointing awal at other end
10.
Non-expandable measuring tape
for measuring various part of the last
11. To trace curve on desired place on the models like
French curve
12.
Triangular file
is used as sharpening device
12

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13
Line transferring wheeler
with wooden handle is used to transfer line from base model
to working paper pattern.
14
Magnetic hammer
for nailing on the last
15
1 to 10mm individual gauge
for perfect marking, measurements and allowances
Method of upper designing:-
•
There are various types of methods followed by the designer to cut patterns of s shoe. The
main thing is the skill and accuracy of the concerned designers which make the ultimate
design a success
A)
Designing with the help of mean form:
•
This system is first to make the inside and outside forme of the concerned last
consecutively the mean of these forms. With help of mean forme standard is being
developed where specific angles and lines drawn related to the concerned last. This
method is simple and based on geometric ones, its easy to learn and easy to teach
Forme cutting (copying method):
To develop shoe on three dimensional last it is
required to make on flat shape on paper, it is possible through transfer of three
dimensional shaped surface of last to two dimensional flat papers.
•
With the help of drawing it is possible to create design and at
the same time to produce
various part of the concerned design which is known as pattern
•
To transfer the three dimensional surface to a two dimensional drawing paper there are
various method existed which are followed by the designer, the common method is
develop design is through Mean forme.
a)
Paper method:-
1. First drawn Centre line on the last, it starts from middle of the toe to the top of the
front cone and back curve simultaneously. This help to locate the Centre line the top, the
inside featheredge of the last with the help of the concerned paper pattern of insole
2. Put the last on the paper keeping the insides of the last touches the paper, now draw the
perimeter of the last by pencil at 90c
3.
Draw a line at distance 20mm from the edges of the line at 15mm at the cone
4. Now make two rough copies one for the inside and other is outside of the last
5. Take a copy of the paper and fit it to the last with nail. Care should be taken to so that
the paper could be fixed without tension and distance between the nails must be 15-
20mm
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6. Carefully transfer the centre line of the last to your slotted paper at same position ,
after completing centre line in the same way to transfer the feather edges line, back centre
line and also top line.
7. Take off the paper from the last and repeat the system and repeat for the other side of
the last.
8. Finally cut both copies exactly along the marked lines on the rough copy.
9. Draw the both copies on a paper and cut the both copies
10. Draw the outside copy on paper and then carefully place inside copy on the outside
copy on outside copy. Make the average line [line between the inside and outside]
•
Cut out the mean copy and mark the inside copy along the feather line at the joint area.

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- Spring '14
- Onyancha PhD