Cognitive pillar represents models of individual

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Cognitive pillar : represents models of individual behavior based on subjectively and constructed rules and meanings that limit appropriate beliefs and actions. The cognitive pillar may operate more at the individual level in terms of culture and language. The three pillars vary substantially in the type of institutional order they support. They are different in motives for compliance, logics of action, mechanisms, and indicators employed. Each offers a different rationale for claiming legitimacy, whether by being legally sanctioned, morally authorized, or culturally supported (Bruton et al. 2010 ). In this chapter, we only focus on the regulative pillar of the environmental adaptation process in textiles and garment SMEs in Vietnam. This re fl ects the early evolutionary state of the industry, in which government legislation, industrial standards, and customer requirements are paramount. We go on to assess if the current governance system has any in fl uence on the environmental adaptation process at these companies. In interviews with company managers, nongovern- mental organizations (NGOs), and government of fi cials, focused questions, with follow ups, were used in long interviews. Underpinned on institutional theory and the regulative pillar of the environ- mental adaptation process informed by a literature review (Nguyen et al. 2014 ) and preliminary interviews, we developed focused questions for interviews with com- pany of fi cials of textiles and garment SMEs in Vietnam: 1. What environmental requirements does your company have to comply with? 2. How easy or dif fi cult do you fi nd responding to these requirements? 3. How does the current governance system in fl uence the environmental adaptation process at your company? Similar focused questions for NGOs, experts, and governmental of fi cials were developed: 1. What are the environmental requirements that the SMEs in the garment and textile industry currently have to comply with? 2. How do these companies react to these requirements? 3. How does the current governance system in fl uence the environmental adaptation process at your company? Environmental Adaptation by Small and Medium Sized Textile 97
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A total of 21 interviews were conducted; of these, 8 interviews were with government of fi cials, 3 were with NGOs, and 10 were with SMEs. The number of interviews for each group stopped when theoretical saturation was reached (Flick 2002 ; Robson 2002 ). Theoretical saturation occurred at a small sample size, sug- gesting homogeneity of issues faced in the industry. The interviews revealed a number of problems with the current environmental legislative as well as the governance system in Vietnam. 4 Current Environmental Requirements at Textile and Garment SMEs in Vietnam The environmental requirements for textile and garment SMEs in Vietnam can be identi fi ed in four main groups. The fi rst group is the Law on Environmental Pro- tection 2005 (LEP). LEP is applied to all kinds of economic facilities in Vietnam,
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