This is the smallest possible area in which a pair of patterns could be cut A

This is the smallest possible area in which a pair of

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This is the smallest possible area in which a pair of patterns could be cut. A set of table are drawn up so that a % could be added to this area to allowance. This will include “a second waste” which is proportional to the size of the pattern and inversely proportional to the area of the skin. In this system also each and every componenets are marked separately on the paper by using the closest possible interlocking system. The first component is marked on the paper and the second one is rotated through 180 ° without being turned over.The procedure is continued till there are at least eight components marked, four in each of the two position. Now join four corresponding points of the components in the same position to form parallogram or rectangle or square. Within this figure you will find one completed pair of components with some unavoidable waste. This wastage is known as “First Waste.” This is the possible most economical area of a pair of components could be.
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Advantages Areas of the perimeter is related to allowance . The differences allowed for that would affect the layout of the patterns. Disadvantages :- Not adjustable for size change. The % added are based on past inaccurate records. Qualities of a good clicker. i. Good reasoning ability :- Most Footwear comp onents are cut from leather. No two pieces of leather are the same size, shape and substance.No two skins have blemishes in exactly the same place. Therefore a clicker can not be given a blue-print on how to cut the leather. He must be able to reason out for himself . ii. Spatial perception :- A clicker must have ability to interlock different shapes of shoe components on to each other .He should be able to plan ahead to achieve the maximum number of cut components from the material. He must have perceptive ability to distinguish blemishes and defects on the material . iii. Colour realization:- Due to the variation of the colour shade within the leather, it is necessary to match cut components. The clicker should not be colour blind. iv. Decision making: A clicker must be able to make quick accurate decision. Each time a component is cut a clicker makes a decision as to its suitability on the finished article. Poor or hesitant decision maker will have low output of quality cut components. Types of clicking press - swing beam -Travelling overhead Advantages of swinging beam clicking press over travelling overhead -requires small floor space. -Have high speed for cutting many components and economy of Effort. -Can be adjusted to any height of cutting die.
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-Clicking die can be turned over quickly because the beam is turned away (swing away). -Its ideal for cutting single thickness. This helps when cutting leather which is irregular and with Defects.
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  • Spring '14
  • Onyancha PhD

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