History of Fashion - Exam Flashcards

Terms Definitions
financier
andrew carnegie
Elsa Schiaparelli
spectator sports style
1910 Trends
-Narrower lines, sloping shapes
-brighter colors
-hobble skirt
-harem trousers
___ women wore:
-tunic and palla
-usually 2 tunics (under and over)
-noble and wealthy women wore elaborate patterened fabrics
-turban-head dress
Byzantine
survivals of 18th century
watteau back
pumpador
polonaise
tricorne
bicorne
t-shirts
1940s Men’s Costuming. Knit undershirts with short sleeves.
1940 Trends
- tailored mannish suits
-peplum jackets
-padded shoulders
-knee length straight skirts
-3/4 coats
-debut of bikini
kashmir shawls
made from cashmere goat
incorporated decorative motif
worn by indian men
bands of trim; usually purple, indicates senators. Narrow=Knight (Etruia and Rome)
Clavi
puritans
sad colored clothes
shaved head (round heads)
high cowned hats
simple clothes
aprons (not ornate)
plus fours
A fuller version of knickers
walking shorts
1940s Men’s Costuming – Sportswear. Based on military costume of British Colonial soldiers.
chino (fabric) chinos
Men’s Sportswear. Khaki-colored, twill weace, cotton-fabric trousers.
1970 Trends
- "anything goes" hippie style
-long and short skirts
-long hair
-platform shoes
ultimately ____ and ____ conflicts over ____ led to war between north and south
political, social
slavery
galoshes
flat soled over shoe with toe cap
What was their time period? (Etruia)
800-200 BC
What people wore fitted leather shoes with pointed toe, often dyed red
Etruscans
shortgown
garment similar to loose jacket or overblouse, worn with skirt by working class and rural women
mannerist style that bridged ren. and baroque periods
...
hoops
structure of metal, cane, wire, wooden hoops holding out women's skirt; shape varied as to wat was popular at time
ensembles
Matching dresses and coats, or skirts overblouses and coats
lumber jacket
1930s Men’s Outdoor Garment. Sturdy jackets made of heavily fulled wool.
zoot suit
1940s Men’s Costuming. An extreme form of the sack suit of this period. Long jacket with excessively wide shoulders and long, wide lapels. Trousers were markedly pegged.
continental suit
Late 1950s Men’s Costuming. New suits with shorter jackets, a closer fit through the torso, and rounded, cutaway jacket fronts.
silent generation
The postwar generation of young people.
Stole
a long, narrow strip of material, which was worn over the shoulder during the mass. Ch. 5 Early Middle Ages
victoria sleeve
variation of sleeve en bouffant
puff at elbow
Outer tunic, could have sleeves or be sleeveless with open sides (Early Middle Ages)
Surcote
garment adopted by king charles II of england he vowed to wear rest of his life
vest
chukka boots
A strap and buckle across the ankle
white bucks
White buckskin shoes; worn after Pat Boone wore these shoes;part of the uniform of casual clothing for college students; a blucher-type oxford made with suede split-leather upper. Typically has a red cushion-crepe rubber sole. When made of white leather, called white bucks.
Jacket
a shorter houppelande worn in the late middle ages
political events
englad
king george III cound not govern: had dementia. son set fashion styles for upper class
impact on clothing influences from
native americans
used local materials
acquired new textiles, garments, decorative material
__ was the major fiber used by Romans, and __ was also used
wool
flax
What fashionable footwear did men wear in the _____?
-____(cut and sewn, not knitted)
-____-strips of cloth wrapped around legs
-shoes with slight point (ankle to mid-calf)
Early Middle Ages
Hose
Gaiters
Western European was a blend of __ and ___ (Germanic) culture
Roman
Barbarian
ditto suit
men's suit same fabric used for pants, jacket, vest, and sometimes cap
polo coat
Made of tan camel’s hair were worn by a British polo team playing exhibition matches in the united states and the style swept the united states and continued on into the 1930’s.
A-line trapeze
1958 – A-line dress with full hem sweep – unfitted dress made with narrow shoulders that gradually widens, somewhat like a pyramid, to a very wide hem. Designed by Yves Saint Laurent for the House of Dior in Paris in 1958.
What is another name for the Early Middle Ages
Dark ages
Forms of leisure that seem to be fully motivated by social factors
conspicuous leisure
sig. of expanding trade
products became sig. in textile industry
warhouses needed to be built
financing started to take place
competition increased
silk and cotton and spices
baby boom(ers) Suburbs
Late 1940s – Influence on Fashion. A bumper crop of babies.
while fashions worn by most americans originated in styles shown in _____ the dress of a few ethnic minorities was sometimes evident
______ and ______
paris
paris fashion, native american fashion
marcel wave
The marcel wave was a style made up of a series of deep waves all over the head
Beginning with the layer closest to the body and ending with the outermost garment, describe the layers of garments that men and women would have worn in the 10th and 11th centuries. MEN:
We start with underclothing consisting of undershirts and drawers. Undershirts, sometimes referred to as chemises, were short-sleeved linen garments. Underdrawers, called braies, were loose-fitting linen breeches fastened at the waist with a belt. Men often wore an outer and under tunic. Usually both were the same length although sometimes the under tunic was slightly longer and therefore visible at the lower edge of the garment. When short in length, outer tunics were almost always made with close-fitting sleeves. Sometimes sleeves extended over the hand with the excess fabric pushed up into folds above the wrist.
Long outer tunics were made either with fitted sleeves, or (more often) cut wide and full, allowing the sleeve of the under tunic to show. Tunic necklines were round or square. These garments were usually belted at the waist. The fabrics most frequently used were linen and wool. The poor wore wool almost exclusively. Silk was imported by the very well-to do. Social class distinctions were evident in length of the tunic and its decoration. Outer tunics of the wealthy were decorated with bands of silk embroidery at neck, sleeves, and hem.
The nobility and the clergy wore long flowing robes for ceremonial occasions. For hunting and warfare men of all classes wore more practical short tunics. Men in important political or religious positions wore mantles draped like Greek himations for ceremonial events over the other garments. Also, leg bandages or hose were worn to cover the legs and closely fitted shoes generally ending at the ankle or they wore decorated boots.
early middle ages
How did the production of silk contribute to the spread of Byzantine style influences to Western Europe?
The Byzantines began to be the only ones exclusively producing silk fabrics to eh Western world. The emperor even exploited his monopoly by charging enormous prices for the fabrics; therefore, only the wealthiest Europeans could afford the fabric. Brocades woven in Byzantium were especially desirable. Since they were the only ones selling it, the designs were exclusively Byzantine styles and they spread all over to those who could afford it. early middle ages
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