Textiles class Flashcards

Weaving
Terms Definitions
Heddles
each thread in the warp passes through a heddle which is used to determine the pattern of the cloththe heddles and harnesses separate the warp threads so the weft threads can pass through
Intarsia Knit
look like Jacquard Knitno floats on the backmore expensivehigher quality
Jacquard Knit
a knit fabric with more than one color in the same row (when a color isnt being used it floats on the back of the fabric) the floats can be hidden with a lining or by a double knit
Jacquard Weave
a novelty weave with intricate, sometimes multicolored patterns produced on a jacquard loomdamaskbrocade
Leno Weave
a novelty weave where pairs of warp yarns are twisted together after each weft thread is placedproduced very open but stable structureex curtains, chanille yarns
Missoni
an italian fashion house that is famous for unique knitwear such as multi-colored warp knits
Momie weave
novelty weave with a grainy texture formed using small random floats
Pile Knit
single or double filling knit with extra yarns that form loops on the surfacevelourknit terryclothfake fur
Pile Weave
novelty weaveadding extra warp or filling yarns in order to create a pile of loops on the fabrics surfacecorduroyvelvetvelveteen
Pique weave
small geometric pattern and a noticeable texture (using diff sized yarns) indented areas in the cloth help trap air and/or absorb waterex dish towels, cloth baby diapers, thermal blankets
Plain Weave
Basic Weavepassing each filling yarn over and under each warp yarn with each row alternating-front looks exactly like the back-easy-cheap
Reed
part of the loom that keeps the warp threads separate and evenly spaced (comb like)beat weft threads into place
Repp Weave
variation of plain weave with thicker yarns in the WEFT that form ribs (like a ruffles potato chip)
Rib Weave
variation of plain weave where thicker yarns are used in some parts of the WARPmakes fabric strongergives it a more permanent rippled look
Satin Weave
basic weavehas a float like a twill weave but the floats are strongersmooth compact surface, no distinguishable walesfilament fibers- thread needs to be very thinstaple version= sateen
selvedge
woven edge of a fabricrunis in the same direction of warp
Shuttle
a device used to push the WEFT yarns through the warpcan also be done with air or water(which shuttle wouldnt be needed)
Skew
woven fabrica condition in which the weft yarns do not run perfectly straight across fabricdiagonal line
Slack-Tension Weave
woven fabric made by using 2 warp beams1 beam has yarn with normal tension1 beam has yarn with loose tensioncreates ripples (seersucker)or loops (terrycloth)on both sides
thread count
woven fabric# warp threads plus the # of weft threads per a square inchex 100 X 150= 250
Twill Tape
flat ribbon made from a very narrow twill weave fabricex drawstring
Twill Weave
basic weavethreads that float over 2 or 3 other threadscommonly used for pantsstrong
wales
in a twill weave fabric wales are diagonal lines created by stacks of floatsin single/double filling knit walres are the vertical columns of V shapes
warp
set of threads that go through the loomperfectly straightruns parallel to the selvedge
warp beam
holds all the warp threads while cloth is being produced
weft
threaded through the warp using a shuttleweft threads can be more decorative
PLAIN WEAVES
ChambrayChina SilkGeorgetteGinghamLameLinenMadrasMuslinOrganzaShantungSilk Noil
MOMIE/ CREPE WEAVE
crepe
DOUBLE WEAVE
matelasse
RIB AND REPP WEAVE
ribstop
DOUBLE FILLING KNIT
Double knitInterlock
SINGLE OR DOUBLE FILLING KNIT
Fleece-shirts = single-polar = doubleJacquard KnitRib Knit
SINGLE FILLING KNIT
French terryJerseyTerrycloth (pile knit)Velour (pile knit)
WARP KNIT
LaceNetTricotTulle
Basket Weave
Checkered pattern that resembles the side of a basketcreated by using 2 or more warp/weft yarns traveling togetherex oxford monks cloth
Bow
a defect in woven fabrics where the weft makes a wavy line across the fabric instead of a straight line
Cable Knit
a style of knitting most commonly used in sweaterssimple stitches of knits and purls are twisted around each other to create rope patterns
Circular Knit
used to make a seamless tube of fabric
Cloth Beam
a roller, located at the front of the look at which the woven material is wound as its produced
Courses
rows of bar-shaped stitches going from side to side in a knit fabric
Crepe (momie) Weave
a novelty weave with a grainy texture formed using small random floats
Dobby
a fabric with small repeating geometric patterns woven into the surfacefabric woven on a dobby loom
extra-yarn weave
a novelty woven fabric that has extra warp or weft threads to form a decorative pattern
Filling (weft)
woven fabrics- the width wise (horizontal) yarns carried over and under the warp
Floats
threads in a woven fabric that go over/under at least 2 other threadsfound in fabrics like crepe and satin
Full-fashioning
a technique for making parts of garments by increasing and/or decreasing the number of stitchesgives the garment a more polished look
gauge
number of stitches per square inch (horizontal direction) on a knit fabric
Grosgrain ribbon
a ribbon made from a narrow piece of repp weave fabric gives it a distinctive rippled texture and matte appearance
Harnesses
wooden frames that lift sets of heddles# of harnesses= complexity of the patternplain weaves- need 2twill weaves- need @ least 3satin weaves- need @ least 5some novelty (dobby)- need more than 20
Pile Knitsingle filling knit
Fleece- sweatshirtvelourknit terrycloth - stretchy
Twill Weaves(Fact Card)
-more resilient than plain weave-has diaganol lines called WALESformed by stacks of FLOATS-often looks diff on the front and backdenim gabardine glen plaid herringbone houndstooth surahtwill tape= drawstring usually herringbone
Satin Weaves(Fact Card)
has floats like twill weave but are stronger-no distinguishable wales-smooth-filament fibers= thread needs to be very thing-staple fiber= sateencharmeuse, satin, sateen
Extra-Yarn Weave(Fact Card)
extra yarn embroideryback is a plain weave, front has lots of extra threads that have been cut to form "eyelashes"
Pique Weave(Fact Card)
sometimes called dobbymore insulatingnever smoothgeometric patternpique towels are more absorbent than plain weave towelsBirdseye pique- cloth diaperswafflecloth
Pile Weave(Fact Card)
Plush surfacevelvet- filament fibers; moves wellvelveteen- staple fibers; not as shinycorduroy; has ribs; wears out easily
Slack-Tension Weave(Fact Card)
made using 2 warp beamshas ripplesor loops on both sidesseersuckerterrycloth
Double Weave(Fact Card)
2 warp beams2 pieces of cloth are made at the same time and locked togetherfront and back usually have completely different structuresmatelasse
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