History of Fashion Flashcards

Terms Definitions
waistcoat
vest
banyans
indian gown
1910 key events
WW1
1960 Designers
Emilio Pucci, Valentino
1920 Designers
Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin
When did writing develop?
3500 BC
fasionable haristyle where hair curled, full and wide around face and long locks in back
hedgehog
knock-offs
Innovative and creative American designers, created new styles and were regularly reported in the fashion press.Popular designs originated by couture and high-end American ready-to-wear designers working on higher-price lines were copiedAn item of apparel copied from a more expensive item and generally manufactured from lower-priced components so it can sell at a lower price.
political events
france
napoleon bonaparte re established court and made paris center of power and fashion
When were the Dark Ages?
1100-800 BC
pet-en-lair
short, hip-length dress worn with separate, gathered skirt
stomacher
first used in men's doublets. paltock.
cut v, fabric underneath
basque shirt
1930s Men’s Sportswear. Striped, wide crew-necked shirts.
DAs
Hair somewhat longer, with sideburns and a duck-tailed shape cut at the back.
spandex
generic fiber term for manufactured fibers, composed largely of segmented polyurethane, which are stretchable, lightweight, and resistant to body acid. Used for girdles, foundation garments, bras, for bathing suits, and to make stretchable fabrics. Spandex is not used alone, but in combination with a wide variety of other fibers. Current trademarks include Lycra®, Dorlastan®, and Glospan®.
1900 Trends
-pouter pigeon figure (small waist with rounded curves above and below)
-s bend corset
-leg of mutton sleeve
-bloomers
newmarket
mens coat sloped gradually to back well about waist
What happened in the 11-13th century that brought new products and ideas to Western Europe? (The ____)
-meant to free holy places from Muslims
-Introduced new products and ideas from Muslims (food, spices, drugs, art, fabrics)
Crusades
Tombs; way we learn about culture, stuff ruined from the wet climate (Etruia and Rome)
necropolis
What was worn over the doublet?
-very full and gathered, worn long or short
houppeland
in france elaborate style of deaddress known as commode in england
fontange
vest
garment adopted by king charles II
knee-length outer coat, waistcoat of same length obscured beeches beneath
sleeveless garment, buttoned down front, worn over shirt, blouse
polo shirt
Knitted shirts with attached collars and short, buttoned neck vents
panty briefs
Panties became panty briefs. Then briefs as they grew shorter in order to fit under active sportswear.
Monastic (dress)
1940s Claire McCardell – American Designer. A bias cut, full tent dress.
bold look
Men’s Costuming. Not a radical change in fashion, but rather a continuation of the English drape cut with greater emphasis on a coordination between shirt and accessories.
Tablione
This cloak was distinguished by a large square decoration in contrasting colors and fabric that was located at the open edge over the breast. Ch. 5 Early Middle Ages
1930 Trends
- soft looks (loose light weight fabric)
-long hemlines
-big hats
-fox fur collared coats
-bias cuts, more form fitting
-platform shoes
bishop sleeve
row of vertical pleats at shoulder which released into solf full sleeve gathered to wrist
What study of __ for women was considered scandalous by the clergy in the Middle Ages? (___ that were sidles were immortal_
surcote
What are the 3 archetypal clothing designs?
draped
slip on
tailored
What was the most used fiber in Egypt?
Linen
Because are was ___ and usually did not show clothing colors it was a problem learning about clothing from paintings and statues (Greece/Crete)
stylized
clubwigs
men's wig
lock or pigtail at back, doubled up on themselves and tied at middle to form loop of hair
artificial silk (rayon)
A manufactured fiber made from cellulose.
L-85 regulations
Restricted the quantity of cloth that could be used in clothing.
mandarin collar
Standing band collar that extends up on neck, not quite meeting at center front / Chinese style
Points
they were laces or ties, which ended in small, metal tips or ‘points’ and the garment was ‘pour les ponts’ or “for the points.” Worn in 14th c. by men. in late middle ages
Roc
a loose-fitting gown. The bodice was cut with a round neckline with a cascade of gathers or pleats at the very center of the back. Unbelted and made in soft fabric, the dress fell loose and unfitted to the ground. Sleeves were long or fitted or short. late middle ages
marie sleeve
full to wrist, tied in intervals with ribbons or bands
Why there was a ___ in ___ class during Later Middle Ages:
-population was lowered
-bad weather in 1300s caused famine
-the plague
rise
middle
What was the time span Sumerians wore kaunakes?
3500-2500 BC
mantua, manteau
women's gown cut in one length from shoulder to hem worn over corset and underskirt
cloche
A small, close fitting hat was the predominant hat form
Hennin
At the close of the 14th c. Burgundian women adopted a tall, exaggerated, steeple-shaped headdress style. in the late middle age
What was the time span of Roman Republic?
509 BC-27 AD
Eton Crop
The eton crop was a style in which hair was exceptionally closely cropped and dressed like that of the men
Set-in sleeves
– sewn in sleeves - began in the late middle ages.
The ___ were taken over by the ___ in a revolution
Etruscans Romans
What changes take place in terminology used to identify men and women's garments in the early middle ages?
Undershirts were sometimes called chemises and underdrawers were called braies for men. Women’s hose were called stockings and not leg bandings.
how did childrens dress differ from adult how was it similar
boys different and girls were the same
boys dressed like girls ->
3-4 long robe fastened down front ->
6-7 dressed adult male
rhinegraves
petticoat, breeches
fashion centers
pork pie hat
1950 Designers
Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent
archetypal clothing designs-fabric is wrapped around the body
draped
bustle
small down-filled or cotton-filled pads worn by wmen tied on around waist at back held out skirts in back
shortiestoppers
1950s Women’s Outdoor Garments. Jackets, ending avoce the waist. Convenient way to accommodate wide skirts.
fist american fashion mag
godeys lady book
(upper Class) tightly fitted tunic with lacing at te sides and horizontal puckering (Early Middle Ages)
Blaiut
decorative edging on sleeves and hems-shows conspicuous consumption-Later Middle Ages
Dagging
pantofiles
heel-less slippers or mules for women
flappers
Term applied to fashionable young women in their late teens and twenties; adopted the unfitted styles, short skirts, and bobbed hair of the 1920s.
feather cut
1940s Women’s Hairstyle. Short, curly hairstyle.
acrylics
generic fiber category established by the FTC for a manufactured fiber primarily composed of a polymer material called acrylonitrile. Also refers to fabrics or yarns made from acrylic fibers. Acrylic fabrics have a soft, wool-like hand, good wrinkle resistance, wash and dry quickly, and therefore are often used in easy-care apparel products such as sweaters and socks; current trademarks for acrylic fibers include Acrilan®, Duraspun®, and Creslan®.
1920 Trends
- Chemise dress
-long pearls and beads
-t strap shoes
-cloche hats
-costume looks
mackintosh
waterproof coat , rubber and cut short, loose overcoat
rain coat
What flexible form of armor was developed in the 12th century:
-interlinked metal rings
-worn over padded garment; surcote worn over
Mail
When was the Hellenistic Period in Greece? after ___ BC
323
mantua-style gown
(manteau)
cut one length from shoulder to hem worn over corset and underskirt
paniers
structure of metal, cane, wire, wood hoops extended womans dress at both sides at hip level
cami-knickers/step-ins/teddies
Drawers or knickers became panties in the 1920s; were short, buttoned or elasticized at the waistline, often decorative.Combination garments, combined a camisole and panties
hawaiian shirt
Late 1930s Men’s Casual Wear. Printed in vivid colors.
dirndl skirt
Mid 1940s Women’s Costuming. Full, gathered suits.
French Blue
Men’s Costuming. Light blue dinner jacket.
Lorum
was a long, narrow, heavily jeweled scarf, possibly evolved from the toga with the folded bands, that became part of the official insignia of the emperor. (also called a pallium)
Ch. 5 Early Middle Ages
1950 Trends
- shirt waist dress
-at home clothes (capris)
-wash n wear fabrics
-sweater sets
steady stream of _____ from all over world contributed to pop growth in US
immigrants
Worn over tunics; could be square or semi-circular (Early Middle Ages)
Mantle
When was the Classical Period in Greece?
500-323 BC
plumpers
small balls of wax, placed in cheeks to make round
pomander balls
small balls of perfume, enclosed in decorated, perforated box, shaped like apple
batwing sleeves
Full sleeves were cut in raglan style.
poodle skirts
Late 1940s – Early 1950s Youthful Fad. Full-circle felt skirts with a poodle appliqué in a contrasting color of felt. Rhinestones were used for eyes and to form a collar on the dog.
Houppeland
– Seems to first be mentioned in France and later it surfaced in England. It was a coat worn over a man’s pourpoint. The garment was fitted over the shoulder, then widened below into deep, tubular folds or pleats, which were held in place by a belt.. They were put on over the head (like a hoodie). They used heavy fabrics to make these such as velvet, satin, damasks, brocades, and wool fabrics and often they are depicted as fur trimmed. in late middle ages
Frock
another name thought to be the same garment as a roc.
ready made clothing available due to
immigrant work force
technology
women worked
Anything made or written at the time and place of being studied, first hand information (more reliable)
primary sources
virago sleeve
stylish sleeves were paned tied into a series of puffs
Madeline Vionette
Invented the bias cut, became part of the haute couture after the war, she was one of the most sought after French designers in the 1930s
Cote-hardie
thought to be a variant of the surcote or outer tunic. France’s cote-hardie was always a sleeved overcoat garment for outdoor wear and England’s cote-hardie was a very specific garment that replaced the older form of surcote for use over the pourpoint. in late middle ages
In the ____ ____ men wore short sleeve tunics and sometimes worn over a long sleeved one
Byzantine Empire
clutch coat
Coats that had to be held shut because they had no fastening.
Closed mantle
were a length of fabric with a slit through which the head could be slipped.
Ch. 5 Early Middle Ages
What was the loom used by the ancient cultures (Mesopotamia and Egypt)
horizontal ground loom
flat top
Hair was cut flat on tope and short on sides; general category of hairstyles usually for men, in which the top of the hair is cut to a flat surface. Lengths may vary. The head being round, when the hair is cut flat, the scalp on top of the head is close to the surface, and may be visible (called the landing strip). When the hair is cut so short on top that the only remaining hair forms a horseshoe shaped ridge on the upper sides and across the front the cut is called a horseshoe flattop.
Mantles - name the 4 types
Open mantle – made from one piece of fabric that fastened on one shoulder.
Closed mantle – were a length of fabric with a slit through which the head could be slipped.
Double mantle – two mantles worn by women in contrasting colors.
Winter mantles – could be fur lined.

Ch. 5 Early Middle Ages
Hobble Skirt
pencil skirts
Tabs
skirt on doublet [Cavalier]
Chanel suit
braiding, gold buttons
nehru jacket
single breasted
slightly fitted
standing color
name from prime minister in india
Netherhose
tights on the bottom [Reformation]
Amelia Bloomer
19th century dress reformer
chemise
a loose-fitting linen women undergarment worn close to skin. like mans undershirt but longer
almost every social, economic, political, and art trend during period of 80-2008 could be seen to have connections with fashion T F
ture
haute couture
exclusive, custom fitted clothing
supportasse or underpropper
support for ruffs [Elizabethan]
Farthingale
stiff metal cone-shape thing under skirt.(1400-1500's)
mi-parti
men and women garment
different patterns sewn together
also parti-colored
ensembles
matching dresses and coats, matching skirts, overblouses, and coates
chameleon fabrics
react to external environmental stimuli
change color
who designed "robe de style"
jeanne lanvin
peacock rev
conventional to more creative, colorful, unconventional style
turtleneck, nehru jacket, flared pants, edwardian coats
19th amendment ratified, giving ____ the right to vote
women
continental suit
shorter jacket
closer fit through torso
rounded, cutaway jacket front
gray flannel suit
for career minded buinessmen
slashing/puff
rips with puffed out under clothes [Reformation]
muslin dress
soft dress, higher waistline [Late Georgian]
pumpkin breeches
padded pants, shaped like pumpkins, with panes [Elizabethan]
Dandy
a well dressed men in the 1800's.
characteristics of dark ages
education for laymen disappeared
cultural standards declined
depopulation, poverty, isolation
quality of life declined
few written records
literary production declined
kiddie couture
expensive clothes for children by designers
fortuny differ from other designers
knossos scarf
delphos dresses
___ retailers are fashion apparel discounters
off price
generic term for a T-shaped garment with openings at the top for the head and arms
tunic
pecadils
row of small square flaps placed just below waist on a doublet [Elizabethan]
saque dress
loose fitting gown, literally like a sack [Early Georgian]
during 14th and 15th styles for men and women begn to change much more rapidly ...t or f
true
____ makes first flight across the Atlantic Ocean
Charles Lindbergh
jabot
fake cravat, just a band with a puff, not tied [Early Georgian]
Creed for Grace Kelly
london was specialized (house of creed), memorable fragrance,
bowl crop
looks like inverted bowl around top of head
leisure suit
mens suit
knit or woven fabric casual style
jacket similar to shirt
convertible collar
sport buttons
single or no cuffs
the headband that held the chignon in place is called a
fillet (fil'ay)
mob cap
a hat that covers the hair with a puffed crown [Early Georgian] [Late Georgian]
(19th century men) Deerstalker hat
flaps worn during hunting (Sherlock Holmes)
what were motivations led african americans to adopt styles
civil rights movement
black pride, black is beautiful
???? 4b
medieval society three classed:
and how did their styles differ
Nobility: wealthy men and women, ppl copied their style, wore fine material, brotches
bourgoisie: dressed simple and orderly
Peasant: plain and serviceable clothing, men: homespun tunic belted at waist
women: gowns
elsa schiaparelli known for which following innovations
using surrealist art motifs in designs
" zippers in women clothes
" "shocking pink"
a,b,c
how does process of fashion change in 13th century
evolved gradually. In 13th century women might get married and be buried in same dress or pass it don to daughter. Rapid change began right at 13th century
how did german culture and travels of marco polo influence clothing and fashion industry
marco polo- aroused interest in orient as merchants were anxious to trade (b/c of wat he wrote), described plants, animals, land
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