Gravity Wave Table
Particle kinematics progressive waves
H
cos (kx t )
2
H cosh k (h z )
sin(kx t )
2 k
sinh kh
horizontal and vertical velocity
H
cosh k ( h z )
u
cos(kx t )
x
2
sinh kh
w
H
sinh k ( h z )
sin(kx t )
z
2
sinh kh
Water particles in a wave

Example 1
Given a wave with characteristics of H0 = 3m and T = 15s. Calculate the wave height at 7 m depth due to shoaling, given wave crests and
isobaths are parallel to the shoreline.
Solution:
Having crests and isobaths parallel to the shoreline means

Example 1
A wave in 200 m water depth has a period of 7 s. Determine the wave celerity
and wave length?
Solution:
Looking at the water depth, assume the wave is a deep water wave:
L0 = 1.56 T 2 = 1.56 72 = 76.44m
Then check if the assumption is valid?
200

DEN 317E
Bonus Homework
23/05/2016
Due Final Exam
1. A wave field is observed by satellite. The wave lengths are determined to be 312 m in
deep water and 200m over the continental shelf What is the shelf depth?
2. A Tsunami is detected at 12:00 on the edg

COASTAL PROCESSES
Marine and Coastal Processes
Processes
Waves
Characteristics of Waves
Breaking waves
Longshore Drift
Waves and Rip Currents
Marine Deposition
Landforms
Depositional features
Erosional features
Coastal processes:
the set of mechanisms th

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DEN 317E
Lecture 2
Water Waves Water Waves?
Water waves are surface waves, a
mixture of longitudinal and
transverse waves Water Waves
deformations of the sea surface
propagate with the wave speed,
the water molecules remain at the same
positions on av